Nicely, right here’s one other first within the collection-review stakes: I’m a drone, circling a whole lot of ft above the Netherlands, and about to swoop in on Duran Lantink and his inaugural “spring-summer-autumn-winter” ’21 runway present. Excuse me whereas I loop the loop searching for the designer. Ah, there he’s, Duran-as-drone, hovering in wait over the sweeping façade of the Seventeenth-century Dutch royal Soestdijk Palace. I can see some fellow company are buzzing in too: Hello!
Of all of the schemes that designers have provide you with through the pandemic, Lantink’s absolutely counts as one of the hilarious options to ye olde observe of “flying in” editors, celebs, and influencers. And aptly tremendous low on the carbon-footprint comparability too, for Lantink’s thoughts is a fashion-sustainability reengineering mechanism. He’s been, ah, piloting his upcycling strategies—repurposing unsold designer-label garments in his pioneering, cheeky means—since 2013. However that is his first runway present…and we’re coming in to land.
Full disclosure: Throughout this journey, I’m at dwelling in London, and Lantink is chatting over his airborne video as we just about zoom in to see his fashions parading by way of the again rooms of the palace. Wiggling his wings in greeting, he explains that appropriately sufficient, the previous looking lodge of the Dutch royal household is itself presently being repurposed by the Meyer Beckman Basis as a middle for platforming made-in-Holland sustainable manufacturing options. It’s opening in 2024. Duran Lantink is the primary to get by way of its doorways.
“We’re right here 30 kilometers outdoors Amsterdam,” he begins. “That’s the place I’ve my studio. It’s fairly enormous, and I’ve acquired it for 300 euros a month as an anti-squat lease. Mainly, throughout lockdown, I had time to work with my assistant, Thibault, on all of the supplies I had left over from collaborations with shops and types, and to provide you with this, our first runway assortment.” Thibault is within the present, sporting, in one in all his exits, a swishing lemon yellow gown that’s reconstructed from one other gown which had been left over from Lantink’s collaboration with Ellery final 12 months. The purpose was to provide him free rein to recycle and provides new life to their unsold stock.
As we buzz round his assortment, Lantink factors out how he’s unpicked, restyled, and refashioned a number of piles of garments mendacity round his studio which “was once” clothes by Balmain, Balenciaga, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Vetements, Marine Serre, and plenty of extra. “At first, we began with shops to see how we might work with their deadstock to see how we might cease their garments going into landfill. And that was the start of pondering how we might create a very new type of enterprise.”