With out journey because the dependable supply of inspiration it as soon as was, many designers have turned to their instant environment as a place to begin over the previous 12 months. Eudon Choi, however, has chosen to embark upon a collection of imaginary journeys for every assortment produced below lockdown. Within the spring this meant a jaunt by way of southern Italy, whereas final month, for pre-fall, he dreamed of a visit to Bhutan, realized by way of a colourful homage to the nation’s wealthy custom of handmade textiles.
This season Choi discovered himself whisked away on an idyllic ski trip, held throughout the opulent environment of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s chalet in Gstaad, Switzerland. Within the ’60s it was a high-society scorching spot that performed host to a revolving door of iconic Hollywood figures. “I needed to have a look at that decade for its optimism,” mentioned Choi. “I stumbled throughout all of those photos of fabulous ladies like Audrey Hepburn and Romy Schneider ingesting Champagne or mulled wine at these ski resorts, and I began daydreaming.”
There have been references to the Swinging Sixties in leather-based shift attire and skirts with undulating rounded pleats. Nods to skiwear got here by way of knitted leggings and hooded sweaters minimize from luxurious wools and cashmeres. The colour palette of crisp whites and icy blues, in the meantime, carried all of the invigorating chill of a clear-skied Alpine morning.
Most fascinating, although, was how the gathering served as a marker for the designer’s ongoing evolution, which has quickly accelerated over the previous 12 months to fulfill a brand new and really completely different demand. For a lot of his model’s 12-year historical past, Choi’s bread and butter lay primarily in tailoring. And whereas he’s nonetheless keen to place an creative spin on the architecturally minded blazers and trousers that made his title, his response to the palpable temper shift towards informal dressing has confirmed to be surprisingly compelling too. “It’s about easy concepts which you could play with,” mentioned Choi. In line with that outlook, a star piece this season was a knit with a cutout again styled in a number of configurations and colorways, trying simply nearly as good again to entrance over a printed gown because it does the suitable method spherical over a pair of shorts and knee-high boots.
It’s this newfound knack for adaptability—in probably the most literal sense of the phrase, for the reason that items are able to be personalized on the go—that marks Choi as an unexpectedly savvy voice amongst his friends in London, constantly discovering new methods to strike a recent observe within the face of widespread uncertainty. “I need it to be cozy and simple to put on, however I nonetheless need it to be enjoyable,” he mentioned. “I can’t simply change my model identification in a single day, however we additionally need to pay attention to what’s occurring on the planet. I wish to be ready for each state of affairs.”