Rick Owens was simply waking up from a nap an hour and a half forward of showtime. You are able to do that when your present is on the seashore throughout the road from your home. Fall 2021 is season three on the Venice Lido for Owens and his small Italian staff, 4 if you happen to embrace the boys’s video he made final July. “Doing these reveals with out an viewers is changing into a sort of personal ceremony as a result of we’re kind of doing it for ourselves,” he stated on a FaceTime name. “There’s a sweetness to it.”
Sweetness will not be the phrase that got here to thoughts watching the livestream of the present on his web site. Cinematic, otherworldly, and superheroic are extra prefer it. Owens’s fashions regarded like a wonderful troop of aliens whose spaceship wrecked within the fog of the Lido, and reasonably than ship up a misery sign they determined to make one of the best of it by throwing a disco couture rave.
As at his males’s present in January, staged the day after the U.S. inauguration, right this moment he was speaking concerning the worry, anxiousness, and rage triggered by the “the forces that just about received the American election.” He stated, “The menace of that’s nonetheless there, and that disturbs me and it’s one thing to be actually vigilant about.” He received’t hear any arguments on that topic from this author. However to deal with his politics and his pronouncements dangers eliding the apparent: that Owens is a designer of cinematic, otherworldly, and sure, superheroic imaginative and prescient. When Chloé Zhao will get her second Marvel film, she ought to rent him.
Owens has channeled his disturbance into a group that synthesizes the comfortwear of the pandemic—bodysuits, knits, the ever present puffer—with the grandeur of high fashion. You’d be hard-pressed to discover a extra glamorous robe this season than this present’s closing look, a completely sequined ivory hourglass stunner with a sculptural, uneven neckline and a single sleeve that was worn with a black gauntlet and matching masks.
Equally cool had been the couture-ish issues he did with the extra would-be-plebeian apparel: the puffer capes that regarded like protecting carapaces, the coats with energy shoulders that, as he so poetically put it in his notes, “turned the physique into an architectural bulldozer,” the shredded denim twisted and draped right into a sinuous platform-scraping costume. Each rave wants sequins. Owens’s sequins got here through over-the-shoulder thongs worn with cashmere bodysuits.
As regards to underthings, the pentagram briefs from the January males’s present reappeared right here wrapped round night clutches, the implication being that these alien females had dealt with the “unhinged male aggression” that these briefs signified. Is that studying an excessive amount of into issues? Most likely, however that’s completely a part of the fun of a Rick present. Right here’s what Owens needed to say about it: “Throughout instances of strife, you gotta step up.”